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Florence's most-queued gallery is bearable once you know the hours it fills, the ticket tier to buy and the rooftop door that stays quiet.

Reach the railing early enough and book the pizza class late enough, and the whole evening falls inside the same twenty minutes of light.

What a day of Chianti cellars in an open vehicle covers, which estates take small parties, and what it costs at the door rather than on a tour.

The 1911 reconstruction on the Alighieri family plot is not the poet's house, but in October it is the right place to begin a half-day walk through the quarter he actually knew.
























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